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deswift
122 Posts |
Posted - 18 Feb 2008 : 10:23:34
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Has anyone else has managed to polish out UV fading from their coloured Gel Coat using T-Cut or similar?
My [red] centreboard version has some fading towards the bow and before I re-seal/wax the surface of the hull, I want to prepare the surface and smooth the dull/scratched areas first.
Thanks in advance
David
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neilgbj
147 Posts |
Posted - 18 Feb 2008 : 21:32:50
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Try Farecla polishing compound..........T cut may be a bit severe. I think your local chandlery will sell it or Laser (its about £16/17).
Neil (270)
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deswift
122 Posts |
Posted - 19 Feb 2008 : 19:34:41
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Thanks Neil. Have you used it? There are several grades I believe. T-Cut also do a finer marine version for plastics and gelcoat, but I was hoping someone might have experience of using either, with a mop or by hand, to see how to get the best finish. David |
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bubble
51 Posts |
Posted - 20 Feb 2008 : 11:52:44
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Hi Did mine in the autumn , started off by hand and gave in, went to the car shop and bought an electrical car buffer with lambs wool bonnet.
I think I used autoglym restorer which had boats listed on its instructions, boats better [ it was the same as described above] but it needs a second go
Its still hard work with the machine, so good luck!!
rgds Neill, Cambridge, 622 |
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deswift
122 Posts |
Posted - 07 Mar 2008 : 15:14:35
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A few interesting lessons learned...
First, I removed minor scratches and all the UV damage with 1200/1500 wet&dry. I didn't try too hard to get the deep scratches out - because I didn't know how thick the gelcoat might be.
'Polishers' are great for finishing, but you really need a rotary (drill or angle grinder) with a polishing head to begin with, and a lambswool bonnet later, to finish off. n.b. ...That's because the Polisher I have, oscillates, rather than spins, so it isn't aggressive enough to get into the gelcoat. I used Marine Tcut, which is a little finer than the standard one.
At every stage I think it's best to use lots of water, to prevent the mop from drying out and scratching the surface. Except that is, for the final polishing stages, with the lambswool bonnet, which seemed to get a better finish dry!
But the process has removed all the UV damage, which extended all along the hull, where the top-cover hadn't protected it.
Lastly, I finished off with International's UV Protecting Wax Sealer, which you just rub on with a cloth and polish off when it's dry.
Bob's your uncle!
p.s. Hope this is helpful. And I think i'll re-wax it during the season, to avoid having to do it again!
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Edited by - deswift on 07 Mar 2008 18:46:12 |
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pcarter
United Kingdom
81 Posts |
Posted - 07 Mar 2008 : 19:40:02
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Wow, what an improvement! How many hours do you reckon the whole process took once you got the right method worked out?
Pete 789 |
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deswift
122 Posts |
Posted - 08 Mar 2008 : 12:20:25
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Probably about four or five hours work. Less than I thought - but I didn't go as far as turning the boat over and doing the underside. |
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