Hi, I have been having some issues with my kite on my Stratos where it feels really quite difficult to pull down. The issue appears to be when the 'clump' of the kite has to get inside the bar where the forestay attaches. I have experimented with knots between the lower and upper kite patches which do help but then mean the kite does not completely go in the chute leaving a portion sticking out the end of the chute. Just wondering if there are any other folks with any advise on how to make the drop a little easier. i am lubricating all the blocks and area with ptfe spray also. Cheers, Keith.
I have had similar problems. Actually more serious jamming than you describe and presently I do not use the kite as my crew has injured shoulder as a result of pulling harder to free the kite jamming! I would be interested in advice to get it functioning again.
There is actually a guy at our club who used to race his old Stratos very weel a few years ago who now has a RSK6 so I plan to get some advise from him on this. I will keep you posted and hopefully we may get a few more responses on the forum here. Cheers, Keith.
There have been a few threads on this on the forum but it should'nt be so difficult that you get injuries .........couple of things but sounds like you have tried some of them....a 12inch bowline (with a bobble) on the top patch should prevent bunching. When you drop do you pass the sheet to the helm (or crew stand on it) to stop the kite collapsing ? When you drop take the slack out of the retrieval line, take two (or three !) big armfuls of halyard/retrieval line on each pull to get lots of kite in quickly (make sure it does not cleat off) and make sure you are in the drop zone....lube around the chute does help ...
Thanks for feedback Neil, I am definately going to experiment further with knot and bobble to reduce the bunching as it enters the chute. Job for the weekend! My other boat (RS100) actually uses a bobble between the 2 patches for this very reason so hoping it may make a difference to the Stratos. I had some other feedback yesterday from a local guy that the actualy cleat can be improved with the spinlock type seen on most new boats as it doesnt tend to cleat on dropping like my original one here does. As soon as it cleats when dropping ive had it and the drop is always hard. However it is much better if I manage a quick clean drop. The other thing that I know is not helping is a soggy tired old kite so maybe a bit of tent waterproofing may help this slightly... Anyway I will keep the post updated if I make any significant improvements. Cheers, Keith.
Totally agree the cleat is outdated and the spinlock will work better (its been on my must buy list for ages along with the quick release cleat for the rudder downhaul !)
Somebody at the Nationals was talking about a spray or liquid you can douse your genny in to make it more slippery. Apparently some other classes use it. Anybody know what it is?
it's the fabsil tent stuff that I have use in the past. It makes the material more water repellent again so means an old kite diesnt get quite as soggy.... It needs to be applied under the correct dry conditions to work. See link to the aerosol can below,
I've had my Stratos since new (over 10 years!), found this problem very early on. Found that downhaul line was catching/jamming in the angle where the furling tube meets the hull. Resolved by fitting the bobble as others have done and smoothing out the joint using some shiny gaffer/tank tape. Not had a problem since.
Interested to see the discussion about getting the asymetric under control. It has given me pause for thought.
Three contributions
A I think the triangular space between the stem and the forestay is too small which causes congestion there - a design fault and not much one can do about that but my next move is to remove the sock to reduce friction and to create more space at the base of the forestay. I suspect there is no real need for the sock or, if lack of it proves a problem, one can make a bigger fatter version with the neck further aft that the standard version.
B Holding the sheet can be a challenge. An attached photo is a modification I have made. Fit a Ronstan ratchet block at the chainplates and lead it forward to the Holt Ratchet block remounted as shown. The Ronstan is much better than the Holt - not least because it is very easy to turn the ratchet on and off - but it is a good idea to turn the sheet through about 180 degrees as it goes round the block to improve grip.
C I am planning to fit a Ronstan onto the side of the bottom of the mast and to feed the asymetric halyard through that. I hope it will have the effect of slowing down the release of the halyard and reducing the tendency of the asymetric going over the side and wrapping itself round the centerboard.